Fellows will fall in line

You are sixteen going on seventeen, fellows will fall in line, eager young lads and rogues and cads, will offer you food and wine

Your are sixteen going on seventeen
The next leg of my journey was a long train ride from Memphis to New Orleans, Louisiana. The train left at 6:40am and was due into NOLA around 4:30pm. I had taken the decision to treat myself to a room on the train rather than just a seat, the difference in price being relatively small. It was well worth it. My room came with two seats that faced each other and could be folded down into a bed if I wanted to sleep. The room also came with a plug socket, some privacy and two meals delivered by Kenneth, the porter looking after our carriage. Kenneth also pointed out where I could help myself to coffee and juice. Just after breakfast the train made a stop at Yazoo, Memphis. For the rest of the journey I had “Only You” stuck in my head.

I waited until a respectable hour then texted Preston, one of my to NOLA hosts, to let him know my ETA. I would be staying with Preston & Casey (Gays 16 & 17), who up until a few months ago had been a couple. They had split up as a couple but were still roommates. In the emails we had exchanged before I arrived they had explained the situation so I knew the background and what I would be letting myself in for. I had responded saying that provided my being there wouldn’t cause any problems for them then I was good. They said it would be fine.

My arrival into NOLA would be before either of my hosts were due to be back home so I had said that I could find a coffee shop near the station until it was time to get a cab to over to theirs. Preston explained that the area round the station wasn’t really the sort of area to have coffee shops or spend time in and that I should just get a cab over to their place. I did, arriving about 15 minutes before Preston got home from work. We introduced ourselves and instantly bonded over a shared love of musicals. Preston had noted the theme of my blog titles. Casey soon arrived home too and the three of sat chatting for a while. They gave me a tour of their place. It became clear that me being in the guest room would mean that Preston & Casey would be sharing a room. I said that I was happy to sleep on the sofa. They said that they would be fine sharing for a few days.

After being given the tour and settling in they asked if I wanted to go out for some dinner. I said that sounded like a great idea. They invited a couple of friends, Aaron & Jonathan over (another pair who had been a couple until recently) to join us. I was told that 2011 had been a “summer of unlove” in NOLA with lots of their friends all breaking up over the last few months. The five of us shared a couple of bottles of wine before we headed over to Ye Old College Inn for dinner.

We ordered a couple of appetizers between us – fried green tomatoes, onion rings and succotash. The food was really nice. I explained that I had never had succotash, and up until now thought it was just a made up word that Sylvester the cartoon cat used. I followed up the appetizers with a great piece of veal. Despite the make up of the group – two separated couples & a British stranger – the conversation during dinner seemed perfectly normal. If I hadn’t have known before I am not sure I would have guessed that they were no longer in couples. There was a bit of bickering but I know couples back home who bicker that much and are together. During one bout of bickering between Preston & Casey I turned to them both and said “I can sleep on the sofa” which seemed to diffuse the tension.

Fellows will fall in line

After dinner Preston headed home as did Jonathan as they both had to work in the morning leaving me, Casey & Aaron to head out for a nightcap. I was taken to the French Quarter and given an introduction to Bourbon Street. We headed to The Pub (the full name being The Bourbon Pub & Parade Disco) for a few drinks. Casey introduced me to a few of his friends who were there. As I met & chatted to each one I explained my trip, where I had been so far and where else I planned to go on my travels. I really needed to make a recording of it so when I meet new people I can just play it to them and save my voice.

As we were stood at the bar chatting there was a tap on my shoulder. I figured I must be in somebody’s way as I didn’t know anyone in Memphis. I turned round to see Chris, my Memphis social secretary, and David, his assistant standing there. I gave him a big hug & introduced him to Casey. It seemed surreal that I would be out in New Orleans, having been there for less than half a day and bump into someone I knew from Memphis.

Eager young lads and rogues and cads

Casey told me that he would give me a quick tour of Bourbon Street so I could see where the other hotspots were and get my bearings. I told him to give me a few minutes to finish my drink. He explained that in New Orleans that didn’t matter – you could walk down the street drinking your gin & tonic. And the bars were open 24 hours a day. I feared for my liver. The street was bustling with people. Casey pointed out the proper tourists, walking down the road with the day-glo drinks holders.

By the end of the evening I felt very welcomed at The Pub – the barman knew my drink so when I went to the bar I didn’t even need to ask for the gin & tonic. The DJ also joined in in making me feel welcomed. He made an announcement that the next song was for the British visitor. A lot of people looked over to me. He played Jedward. I explained that they were Irish. We left The Pub at a reasonable hour.

The following morning Preston had to go off to work so Casey was left to be my tour guide for the day. He explained that he had lunch plans but that we could do sightseeing either side of that. We headed in to town and parked up in the French Quarter. We had a great bimble through the French Market, stopping to have a snowball (a flavoured ice drink rather than the cocktail) along the way. We made our way over to Jackson Square and had a look round the imposing cathedral that dominates one side. We continued our tour taking in the streets of the French Quarter. I really loved the buildings there, with their balconies and wrought iron railings. It had a really nice feel to it and I could just imagine how crazy it would be during Mardi Gras.

Will offer you food and wine

Casey headed off to lunch but not before pointing me towards Yo Mama’s where he said I would be able to get a really good burger. He wasn’t lying. I had a really tasty burger with blue cheese and a pint of lager. The woman behind the bar kept calling me baby but it didn’t occur to me to mind. She also would regularly light up a cigarette, serving people their drinks with it dangling from one side of her mouth. NOLA was certainly a relaxed city.

After lunch I met back up with Casey and we took in an exhibit about Hurricane Katrina. The exhibit was really moving and I could feel myself getting emotional looking at some of the items on display. In the foyer of the exhibit hung hundreds of glass bottles representing the people who lost their lives.  I asked Casey if the city was completely back to normal now. He said far from it and said that he would take me to some of the worst affected areas while I was here so that I could see for myself. To lighten the mood we headed upstairs to have a look round an exhibit on the history of the Mardi Gras parades before heading home to freshen up ahead of a big night out with my newest friends.

 “You are sixteen going on seventeen, fellows will fall in line, eager young lads and rogues and cads, will offer you food and wine”

 
Lyrics from Sixteen going on Seventeen from the musical The Sound of Music