Hear the bells

I can hear the bells, just hear them chiming

My arrival into Philadelphia was somewhat unspectacular. The Megabus was not so mega, arriving nearly an hour late, circling the drop off point twice waiting for a space to free up so we could park and get off the bus. Still, for $19 I don’t suppose it was too bad. I get a train to Ambler, to meet up with Sean & Keith, Gays 4 and 5. I’ve decided to count couples as two gays although I think that might take me to more than 80 by the end of my travels. We head back to theirs and Keith tells me what he plans to cook for dinner. Yet another great welcome from the gays. I feel like I have been really lucky so far and hope that it continues for my whole travels.

We are joined for dinner by Christopher, their next-door neighbour. A bottle of wine is cracked open and soon both the wine and the conversation are flowing. We discuss how we each know the mutual friend, David, who put is in touch. We also watch The Tony Awards show on TV, the Broadway Oscars, and possibly one of the gayest programmes on TV. If you don’t believe me check out the opening from this year.

The next morning I am awake fairly early so I do some admin. I managed to book myself a flight from Chicago to Toronto using some of the many BA miles I racked up while I had a job. The flight costs me 12,500 miles and £1.50. Bargain.

We have breakfast round at Christopher’s and Keith suggest a drive out to a little town called New Hope, on the Delaware River, on the border of Pennsylvania and New Jersey. The three of us jump in the car (Sean having gone to work earlier) and we head out. It is really nice to be out of the city and New Hope is a great little town to wander round. We walk along Main Street, look in some of the shops and I buy some postcards from the local bookshop. I’ve promised to send mother and my sister some postcards while I am away. We cross the bridge, taking us into New Jersey, stopping to watch a man in a kayak being attacked by an overprotective swan with cygnets. After a little walk round Lambertsville, the town on the New Jersey side of the Delaware we head back to Pennsylvania for lunch. A thoroughly relaxing day is rounded off with a few local beers with Christopher at a pub in Germantown.

Nelson Mandela/Morgan Freeman

My first full day in downtown Philadelphia, I spend being a proper tourist. I queue up to see the Liberty Bell. I know that it is a bell and that it has a crack in it but other than that I don’t really know anything about it.  There are lots of schoolchildren in the visitors centre but I try to read all the information boards about the bell. Basically it was made in England, shipped to Philly where it was placed in the State House. It promptly cracked the first time they rang it, a true mark of English craftsmanship. The exhibition included a couple of photos of famous world leaders at the Liberty Bell. The teacher showing round one group of children pointed to a photo of the Dalai Lama and asked if any of the children knew who it was. None of them did. Next she pointed at a photo of Nelson Mandela and asked the same question. One child responded with “Morgan Freeman”. I laugh out loud and have to walk off.

After getting some photos of the bell I go and see Independence Hall and Carpenters’ Hall. Independence Hall, as you may have guessed from the name, was where the Declaration of Independence and US constitution were debated and adopted. The Declaration of Independence was adopted there on 4 July 1776 so in a couple of weeks time there will be some big celebrations happening in the area. Carpenters’ Hall was the meeting place of the first Continental Congress.

After a morning learning about American history I head to go get a Philly Cheesesteak, a local delicacy that is basically a heart attack in a bread roll. The guidebooks tell you to go to Geno’s or Pat’s. The locals tell you lots of other places are better and it is one of these, Steaks on South, that I go to. I opt for the traditional choice and have mine with Cheez Whiz, cheese from a tube. I finish the whole sandwich, which takes some doing. I feel like I should walk to Chicago rather than fly in order to burn off the calories I’ve just consumed. I spend the rest of the afternoon walking round the quaint side streets of Philadelphia.

The evening we (Sean, Keith, Christopher & I) head out for a few drinks in the Gayborhood, the local term for their equivalent to Soho in London. We hit Woody’s first, a long-standing local pub. A couple of drinks later we move on to the Tavern on Camac. There is a piano bar downstairs but we head upstairs to where there is karaoke.  I don’t sing but Keith gets up and does a Coldplay number. Several drinks and a slice of pizza later and it’s a 3am finish for us. I have a lie in the next morning.

My final full day in Philly and I wake up to a message from my sister saying that Auntie Beat has passed away. She had had a good innings as they say but the news is still upsetting.

Eastern State Penitentiary

I go visit the Eastern State Penitentiary, a former prison, now a rather creepy museum.  They apparently open for night-time tours at Halloween and have actors who jump out at you from the old cells. The self guided audio tour is really good. There are some parts of the prison where there is nobody else around and despite it being broad daylight and warm I get goosebumps. I’d recommend a visit to anyone visiting.

Afterwards I meet Sarah, a friend of my old secretary, for some happy hour drinks. We head to a place called The Corner, I arrive about 15 minutes before it opens so I start a queue, like a good Brit. The bar has a very small roof terrace and it is a warm sunny evening so everyone is heading for it. We manage to get a corner table and within 15 minutes the entire terrace is packed. I raise a glass to Auntie Beat. Keith joins us for a drink and then we head to Smokin’ Betty’s. I have a chicken & bacon sandwich which rivals the Cheesesteak for size and calorie content. I still manage to finish it though.

Keith (l) & Sean (r)

The next morning it is time to head off once again, my suitcase packed I say goodbye to my hosts and thank them for putting me up and showing me around. I tell them that if they are ever in London then I will repay the favour and host them at my place. I’m hoping that all the gays I stay with don’t try to take me up on that offer at the same time as I would not have the space for them all!

At the airport I queue to check in for my flight, getting told off by the American Airlines woman at the counter for not using the self-service machines when I get to the front of the queue. I put on my best British accent to apologise and she checks me in. Next stop, Chicago, the windy city!

“I can hear the bells, just hear them chiming” 
Lyrics from I Can Hear the Bells from the musical Hairspray